Twenty five years - large term, this time, which have passed from the moment of last first climb made on the main top Troll Wall in 1972. For a quarter of century these ascent become a legend and only units from making ascents on a wall know, and, as a rule, very indefenetly, how pass three, until recently, most difficult routes on the main top Trollriggen: Norwegian 1965, French 1967 and Arch Wall 1972. All these three passages have required of the climbers of a high degree of courage and pressure of all secret and obvious forces. The less complex Norwegian way, VI, 5.10, A3, has taken 11 days, French dir etissima, VI, 5.10, A4, more than 20 days and, perhaps, most abrupt of Arch Wall, VI, 5.11 -, A4 +, 20 days. Since then each of them was repeated no more than 2-4 times, not mention about making new ways, though the place and relief on a wall for first passages were quite enough.

Many other factors, such as the European affinity, simplicity of organization and the relative availability in the money attitude, has served to the decision to choose Troll Wall by object of a debut for a small team from Russia which has decided to test ify the respect to group of the Big Walls, most known in the world, by laying on them a series of Russian routes.

The initiator and leader of the project "Russian way - Wall of the world" Alexander Odintsov from St.-Petersburg, strong man, which for the sake of achievement, is ready to make an ascent even with the broken leg and who has made tenth of perfect wall r outes. Participants of a team: Igor Potankiní - St.-Petersburg having together with Odintsov Soviet school of competitive mountain climbing and a line of first routes on Russian Big walls. Alexander Ruchkin from Omsk. He has a lot of difficult ascents and 6 times he rises on Aksu in Pamiro-Alai, and twice by new routes. Ivan Samoilenko - St.-Petersburg, climber and high-altitude cameraman leading together with Igor at first climbing on the Big wall 4810 in Pamiro Alai. Ludmila Krestina - St.-Petersb urg skilfully combining skills of the doctor, climber and dietologyst. Yuri Koshelenko from Rostov-on-Don, who has in his list both high-altitude wall ascents and first passages, and rises on the Big walls.

So this team made two new route up to Troll Wall in Norway.

Previously team has lead investigation of chances to make new routes on the Troll and after advices with the representatives of the Norwegian climbers, was finally determined with two first routes. July 14 both parties: Odintsov-Potankin, Koshelenko-Ruc hkin have begun work on the Walll. party from St-Petersburg have planned a diagonal from left to right, with the beginning in the basis obviously expressed 600 meter rock pillar, further transition to the basic wall and crossing with the Norwegian route a nd Arch Wall. Another party has decided to lay the line completely on the basic wall Trollriggen, between the French route and Arch Wall before crossing with them and further on top more to the right of French diretissima.

After on each route the first screw was bolted, the actions of parties had completely independent character. The mutual aid was planned only in case of occurrence of an emergency. Both ascents were made within the championship of Russia.

Ruchkin and Koshelenko spent two days for fixing ropes mainly for shootings film, after day of rest has gone faster on July 17 and finished on July 25 at 20.00 on local time. This route was named "Russian". It took them 8,5 days - 93,5 hours. Potankin and Odintsov all this time worked on extremely complex hanging pillar before transition to the main wall Trollriggen. The strongly destroyed "alive" relief has served as the reason of several working failures, that has resulted in the not planned increa se of time at processing. In total they spent 7 working days on 9 pitches of pillar. When Russian route was already done, Potankin and Odintsov were going to begin an ascent, but the week period of rains has not allowed it to make. Party from St-Petersbur g has started August 1, by showing the excellent form and high class, climbing for one day 9 pitches of fix ropes and three pitches of a virgin soil on the basic wall. Their ascent last 7,5 days. August 8 has become the day of general success of all R ussian team.

Both parties applied identical tactics: first one climbed on a double rope, the hanging tent on two men was transferred by second behind shoulders, the load in special bag was rose by first, the bivi was set at the end of last fixing on a day rope. Ev ery climber was the leading in a day. Both groups on an ascent took with themselves water in volume of 30-35 litres. To the main technical complexities, with which both have met are: the destroyed hanging relief and full by a grass and glue cracks. On Russian route, in particular, from some crevices it was necessary to pull by thr rope tens kgs of grass.

If to give the comparative visual analysis of technical complexity of routes, it could be: the Norwegian route, obviously is easiest than others, passes basically on a normal positive relief and before all leaves on a rather flat top tower of a wall. Arch Wall and new route of party Potankin - Odintsov, named by them "Baltika", are very similar by character of a direction, at Arch Wall a diagonal on the right on the left, at "Baltika" from left to right. At both a very difficult bottom part with the limited relief for climbing and Aid. Among other things at "Baltika" this part strongly hangs, that can give it its priority on complexity and extent (9 pitches) in the bottom part of a wall not so much in comparison with Arch Wall but also other routes: French and Russian. And, probably easiest this part at French, as it before all after two pitches of hanging leaves on the destroyed ledges and passes in many respects on them, then Russian on this piece having three and a half of a difficult pitches and then Arch Wall.

In the average part all four routes have approximately identical complexity, probably, with small overweight at French and Russian. In particular, at last one because of a series of carnices as the turned ladder and general hanging character of pillar.

After the large ledge the most extended complex part at Russian line, as it passes on this piece on right most in length of a hanging part of a wall and goes directly through the largest cornise on the main wall of Troll. This part at the French route also looks approximately as on extent, but less complex, and at Arch Wall and "Baltika" at high complexity less extended. Again the top part at "Baltika" and Arch Wall are similar, as are longly pulled on summits pillar which has a rather smaller steepness, than basic part of a wall. Russian route resembles on French, leaving on an curve of a wall on system of good internal corners with often traverses from under cornises.

Thus, it is possible to conclude, that to two most abrupt routes Troll Wall: French diretisima and Arch Wall two new were added at once, compared with them on complexity and labour input. It is "Baltika", the general extent of 1300 meters, VI, 5.11 -, A3 + and Russian route - 1100 meters VI, 5.10, A4, that was by the first contribution of the Russian climbers to a history of development of the Big walls outside former USSR.