The mountain region of Karavshin valley has received popularity among mountaineers 10 years ago. Its relative availability, surprising nature, and certainly its fantastic peaks involve climbers which loves technically difficult ascents. The purl of a region, is undoubtedly rare beauty and proportion a natural phenomenon - granite massive with a height of 4810 meters. This mountain has not a name. Herds-men call it "Paston", for mountaineers it is known under a topographical high - altitude mark - 4810. There are 5 routes of maximum (6 B - on Russian classification) grade of difficulty from West and only one - from east on this top. And the most abrupt part of east wall was until recently not climbed.

In different years the several groups undertook attempts pass by centre, but the wounds and absence of weather forced to back. Was obviously, that early or lately this ascent would be done. We have thought, that we could be those, who would make it. Two of us, excited by this idea - Igor Potan'kin - sport master, 40 and Alexander Odintsov - sport master, 37 years. Both of St.-Petersburg, both are engaged by a mountaineering within 20 years, both have made many ascent in this region. There was the direct reason to climb together in party. We had a sensitive help of experience of the climbers tried to do it before. Those, who were suitable under a wall, told, that in its bottom third there had not à more or less good ledge for a bivi, the only possible way - platform. We knew, that on the 300 meters overhanging part of a wall even in heavy weather a water does not fall, that means we should carry it with self. It was necessary to be ready that the stuff of rock would appear is covered by metamorphosous peel and it will be required special equipment for belaying. We realised difficulty of a delivered problem, but we had experience and there was a time on preparation.

If you are fed up with a crowd life and you want to feel as a part of a nature - your direct way is to Karavshin valley. Striking events passed this edge and here a little that has changed at the last 10 years. Savage gorges among mountains, half a wild yaks walking in archa bushes weeds and Kirgyz herdsmen with the old style of life. At the end of July, as a rule, weather becomes stable and this year was not exception. Helicopter lands on a platform, and we saw East wall in all its beauty. Excellent place for base camp. Up to a route, we were so aimed, was a short path. But at first we should climb more simple mountain to have a train. This ascent, unfortunately, has become for Igor Potan'kin the last one in this season. Sliding down on descent, he has broken shoulder. It was hard to replace a man, which half-yearly prepared for a particular route, and, besides, is one of strongest mountaineers of St.-Petersburg, but there was no other way. On an ascent instead of Igor has gone Igor Borikhin, sport master, 36 years.

Seventh August we left base camp and went under the wall. Eighth early in the morning the first screw was bolted on a route. The reality was more then expectation. After climbed rather simple firn slope and a bit more difficult dihedral - about 100 meters of length, we have appeared under a roof, the overcoming of which required a pressure of all forces. Pieces of ice, stones, waterfall - all were far from us, that was a doubtless plus.

However complete absence of a water, and the unpleasant thing that to get to the monolithic rock we should scratch 5-10 cm of peel and 200 meters of overhanging and vertical sites did not make us easy. It took us 4 days to climb from under a roof on a plate, where we could see further way in a direction of cornices, crossing all wall and called by us "eyebrows". Here we enjoyed water, and felt the miracle sense of climbing by monolithic, un-weathered crags, but simultaneously, we wet through the bones under a shower from "eyebrows", and in the morning were got up by a sound of ice block broken near the platform. No perfection in the world... More two days and we reached a place, where the "eyebrows" crossed over. There was a ledge, on the size sufficient for party to arranged a bivi. To pull further platform was not a sense and we thrown it down. Subsequent bivies hardly could be called comfortable but the speed of movement increased.

Diretissima of the route leads us to a huge monolithic plate. It is impossible here to find cracks with good "openness" and depth. Sidepulls where was possible to bolt a crux or put a nut, were so untrustful that it looked like all the elements of belaying would be soon felt down. Besides, at its east orientation the wall begins to be lighted at 6 o'clock in the morning. The first attribute of a new day were small blocks of ice bombing us from the warming up top. The warm mount started refresh shower amplifying with each hour. By an evening shower reached intensity of waterfall and we had to hide under roofs. Extent of a plate makes about 170 meters.

At last occurred a relief. A 100 meters length internal corner leads to a very difficult monolithic wall. Several hours of intense work, two pendulums and we were in the basis of a huge internal corner. Becomes clearly, what from the morning ice was. Left-hand of the corner decorated by huge icy blocks and icicles.

Seemed, climb the corner and no more especial difficulties did not expect. However, unpleasant surprise waited for us - monolithic wall with good relief but with complete absence of cracks, suitable for belaying points. Belayer was worrying a lot.

Last bivi on a wall in five pitches from the top would satisfy anybody by its comfort. In the morning on August 17, at last, we had a chance to see the vicinity from height of 4810 meters above a sea level. We felt nothing but the exhaustion. Weather was spoiled, we had to descent. Below we were waited by friends, camp, ready to take over and caravan of donkeys with kirgyz - drovers.