Everything was more or less clear on the eve of departure. Normal route - the trekking way to have acclimatization and after that Breach Wall.
It was our first experience in doing new routes outside our country. The Breach Wall had been chosen as perspective developing place. Hard to say how many people tried to run routes by the Breach wall before us. We knew only Messner's ascents.
The left part of Breach Wall to left from 90 degrees rocks is consisted on a dense volcanic matter and has about 600 meters cornices (Screw bolt takes 15 mines). Many big indentations are on the wall. But there are not safe enough protection places.
It is very likely that this route, interesting technically, can be done. But we refused - problem with protection points was very serious. It needs the electric drill for bolts. We failed but decided to have a look at the giant icicle in the middle of the Wall. Getting closer we found out that the state of ice was very bad. Frequent ice falls. I think it is possible in January when ice is in good condition. And finally we chose the route through the Messner' pillar - 100 meters of ice in the middle of the Breach Wall.
In 1976 year R. Messner ran some routes here. As for as we known nobody did it since that time. Kenyan guides said that the thick of ice becomes thinner and the state of gletcher had changed since Messner' time.
All is changeable not speaking about the gletchers. Trying to make our route more difficult we started in the left part of Messner way (he started by the Heim Gletcher) on the Arrow Gletcher Hut. Here we found 40 meters of vertical wall and 80 meters of 60-70 degrees of stratificated ice. After 2 p.m. icicle falls begins. Nice but not for people under the icicle. Thanks God, ice was tough in the morning, as a rule. The range of temperature is large and Breach Wall became the country of fantastic icicles, masterpices of uknown painters. Fairy tale.
When we got to Messner's icicle we were upset. Ice kept falling. We had to stand by it. All its surface consisted of thin 5-10 cm in diameter tubes like the organ ones. Too dangerous. We did only 45 meters and left this magic point. We went to the right on the Heim Gletcher. We went straight up to the top. All the way up we observed intensive fall of ice from the Diamond Gletcher that gives a birth to the Messner's icicle.