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Marko Prezelj, Slovenia

Was born October 13th, 1965.
At the moment works as a climbing instructor.

Marko Prezelj, photo Stephen Koch

About himself

In 1982 I started with a real alpinism. Since then I like to spend as much as possible time in the mountains. Most of the time I'm in the Alps as I live near them (in Kamnik) and since 1987 I went ten times on "expeditions". There are too many mountains I would like to visit.

I get married on May 14th, 1994, got first son on June 13th, 1994 and finished chemical engineering studies with diploma at the University of Ljubljana on June 14th, 1994.

1987 - Lhotse Shar expedition (reached 7300 m).

1988 - New route in North Face of Cho Oyu (8201 m).


  • Shisha Pangma S face expedition (reached 6500 m).
  • Solo ascent of Kang Ri (6240 m)


  • First ascent of Boktoh (6142 m) with Andrej Stremfelj and Uros Rupar.
  • Second ascent of Talung (7349 m) with Andrej Stremfelj.
  • With Andrej Stremfelj new route in alpine style on Kangchejunga South (8476 m). The ascent was awarded with Piolet d'Or in 1991.


  • Second winter ascent of  "Fish" in Marmolada S face with Janez Kesnar.
  • First ascent of peak 6301 m SE of Menlungtse.
  • First ascent on Menlungtse Main Summit (7181 m) by the East Face in alpine style with Andrej Stremfelj.

1993 With Silvo Karo repeated "Wyoming Sheep Ranch" in El Capitan.

1995 With Andrej Stremfelj climbed new route 'Born under the Wondering Star' on East face of the Torre Norte del Paine, Chile.

1996 During the Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition together with Andrej Stremfelj, Tomaz Humar, Janko Meglic and Jernej Grudnik climbed an unnamed, 5710-meter peak W of Api S Face, Nepal.

With Andrej Stremfelj climbed another 5750 m peak. During the descent to base camp an ice avalanche crushed the tent in which Marko and Andrej were bivouacking. They were injured, and needed help from base. Marko, who had broken bones in his ankle, was carried into the valley by porters.

1998 Together with Thierry Schmitter (France) climbed in winter in the Alps and made a new route on the East Face to the Northeast Ridge of Porong Ri, Tibet (East Summit,7284m) in pure alpine style descend ower NE ridge and a new route over the North Ridge to Yebokangal Ri (West Summit, 7332m - first ascent).

1999 First ascent of the North Face of Gyachung Kang (7952m) in pure alpine style with Andrej Stremfelj, Tomaz Jakofcic, Peter Meznar, Marko Car, Matic Jost.

As acclimatisation, Siguang Ri Shar (6998 m), S Face new route, second ascent of the summit with Marko Car and Andrej Stremfelj andSiguang Ri (7309 m), N Face and E ridge, new route, with Andrej Stremfelj to the saddle, further to the summit also Marko Car, Matic Jost, Peter Meznar and Tomaz Jakofcic and Peak 6700m (Zero peak), E face and SE ridge, new route and first ascent of the summit with Marko Car, Peter Meznar, and Andrej Stremfelj, and a new route in descent by E ridge and E face, with Marko Car, Peter Meznar, and Andrej Stremfelj.

2000Spantik expedition with Manu Pellissier, Manu Guy & Attila Ozsvath climb and descent on Fowler-Saunders route with two variations.



  • One month in Alaska with Stephen Koch
    • 28.-29.06. Mini Moonflower, new route Luna (28 h, 650 m)
    • 02.07. Moonflower Buttress Nort Face Mount Hunter (6, ice to 95 deg., 5.8/A3, 1500 m); fast alpine style ascent, 1st free ascent on sight, 25 hours (previous ascents took 3 to 10 days).
    • 13.07. Marko Prezelj solo (West Buttress) Denali (6194 m)
    • 16.-18.07. Denali, new route Light Traveler (mixed climbing up to M8, 2000 m, free on sight ascent) to Cassin Ridge, 3rd ascent over S face, 48 hours to summit, another 3 hours for descent to base camp.
  • Nilkanth (6596 m) in Garhwal via W ridge with Matic Jost.
    Matic JOST (30) - Marko PREZELJ (36), doctor Zare GUZEJ (55) Data: 13.-15.11. British route 2000, 2nd ascent, alpine style, 4th summit ascent Report (in English)





From the summit

Welcome back
  • 04.04.-28.05.02. Nepal, Himalaja, S. Face Nuptse (7855 m): Barry Blanchard (CA), Steve House (US), Stephen Koch (US) and Marko Prezelj (SI). They reached the height 7250 m, in alpine style.





"We did not reach the summit but climbed a line right of the British route where we descended the fifth day after four days in the face - due to bad weather (strong winds ...)"

There are many more climbs which are part of me as well as this "bones". For instance my trip to Scotland in 2001 was very inspirational, etc...

Photos from the France trip

Sans Nom route, mix

Dame du Lac

Sans Nom - start

Digital rapell

Digital climbing

digital belay

Marko Prezelj Web-site

Publications in RISK

Alaska 2001
SPANTIK expedition. gallery
Calendar 2003
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