For 2002 I have two of them: a ski-tour in Caucasus (with ascent of Elbrus, 5642m) and a long distance walk through wilderness of Kamchatka. In both cases I am the guide. Anyone wishing to take part is welcome.

Caucasus

My Italian friend from Milan, Tullio Foti, for whom I organised a ski-tour in Kamchatka this year in May, is going again on a ski-tour, this time in Caucasus, Elbrus. Everyone with reasonable ski-touring experience and passable English, (or Russian if you prefer that. Tullio's Russian is fluent) is welcome. Ski descent from West summit of Elbrus is planned, so early June is chosen for better snow conditions on the mountain which can be hard blue ice in April-May. Three acclimatising outings are done in the close vicinity of the hotel, to bring down walking with the skis on the rucksack to the unavoidable minimum. For the same purpose on the two first days the chair-lift is used.

Time: early June

Programme:

Day 1. Arrival in Moscow. Either hotel or private flat accommodation.

2. Flight to Mineralny Vody (2hr). Bus transfer (3-3.5hr) to Cheget Hotel** (DBL, private facilities) at the head of Baksan valley, in Terskol village. Hotel.

3. Ski-outing into Donguzorun valley. Hoist to snow by chair-lift, skiing up the valley and descent from Lozhny Donguzorun pass (3200m). 5-6hr. Hotel.

4. Ski-ascent of Maly Donguzorun peak (3760m). Rising to snow by chair-lift, skiing up Medvezhy valley, ascent to the saddle under Maly Donguzorun peak, optional rock climb to the summit, ski descent from the saddle (steepness 30-35*). 6-7hr. Hotel.

5. Ski-ascent of Maly Kogutai peak (3780m). Walk on a path to snow, skiing up and descent from the summit. 6-7hr. Hotel.

6. Bus transfer (20min) to Azau Cable-way Station and hoist to "Bochki" huts (3750m). Time and weather permitting, ski-outing higher to Elbrus slopes.

7. Reserve day (for bad weather).

8. Ascent of West summit, 5642m (carrying the skis on the rucksack), ski descent to the hut on the northern side. 8-12hr Hut.

9. Descent on skis, then on foot to Djilisu impromptu spa (warm Narzan spring, 2500m). Bus (or truck) drive over 3 passes to Baksan valley and down to the town of Pyatigorsk. 6-7hr. Hotel.

10. Bus transfer to Mineralny Vody airport (40min). Flight to Moscow (2hr). Hotel/private flat accommodation.

11. Flight home.

Kamchatka

Following the success of our trip in 2000 (see Kamchatka notes of 2000), the NKBV want to run this trek on the more or less regular basis. On that trip we walked for several days through Kronotsky Reserve and visited the famous Geiser Valley. Alas, the forbidding fees the Reserve started to charge last year have made a budget trip with more or less prolonged walk within its confines nearly impossible. Thank God, Kamchatka is so rich in sites of volcanic activities and total wilderness that you can easily put your line off those expensive confines without losing any beauty and excitement. So this year together with my friend and partner in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and a trek-leader from NKBV, Aart Last, we have worked out a new route, yet partly coinciding with the last year's one. And, of course, as in 2002, every lover of true wilderness is welcome to this trip. Here it is.

Time: second half of August-first half of September.

Programme:

Day 1. Arrival in Moscow. Hotel*** accommodation. If the group comes to Moscow with Aeroflot, there is a possibility to leave the heaviest parts of the luggage in the left-luggage of the Airport.

2. After breakfast in the hotel we go to the city centre to see Red Square and Kremlin. Lunch in town. In the afternoon we go by bus to the airport, retrieve the luggage and fly to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky where arrive in the morning after 9hr of flight.

3. Arrival in Elizovo airport (20km from Petropavlovsk). In half an hour a bus takes us to the hotel in Paratunka village (double rooms with private facilities plus hot volcanic water pool).

4. In the morning we board an expedition four-wheel drive truck (with seats in the cabin) and go up north to Esso village. It is a long drive on the unpaved dusty road (the only one linking the southern parts with those in the middle), so with a break for lunch we come to Esso at 8-9pm. Accommodation at a very nice private hotel. A hot volcanic water swimming pool is several minutes' walk from there.

5. After breakfast a short excursion in the village, visits to the local ethnographic museum and probably to one of the local artists' workshop. The place is a sort of cultural centre for the Koryaks living in the middle part of Kamchatka. Then we go further north to the town of Kozyrevsk where turn left and by a rough forest road go to Kopyto Mountain (rather a low hill in the shape of a horseshoe), the starting point for treks in Klyuchevskoi Group. On the way we cross the Kamchatka river by ferry. In good weather the high snow-clad volcanoes of Klyuchevskoi Group can be seen from the camp site at about 800m. 4-5hr. Camp.

6. Following old tracks and a path, we walk slowly up across wide spaces of tundra until the camp site (1150m) at Barany stream is reached. Grand view of Tolbachik (3672m) across the huge valley. 5-6hr. Camp.

7. Today we walk on a vague path along the bed of Studyonaya river. First "kekurs" (lava outcrops of incredible shapes) are met on the way and in its middle the river bed is a 2-3m wide and 20m deep canyon. In late August water is very low and an exciting walk down there on a smooth rock is quite possible. At the head of the river we walk on a good path over Bezymyanny pass (1500m) and descend to "Plotina" seismology station (1300m) at the foot of Bezymyanny volcano. The landscape is a wind swept volcanic desert bordered by low mountains and snowy volcanoes. 6-7hr. Camp or cramped accommodation in the Station house, if not occupied. Normally it is not, as well as all the other stations in the area.

8. Non technical ascent on lava rock, screes and some snow to the crater's rim of Bezymyanny volcano, (2870m) with return to station. The volcano and the area to east is the scene of the mightiest eruption (an explosion to be exact) of the XX century, which happened on the 30th of March 1956. From the rim the new steaming cone growing in the crater is seen with the masses of Kamen (4579m) and Klyuchevskoi (4688m) behind and back to east are the snowy tops of Ovalnaya Zimina (3080m), Tolbachik (3672m) and Bolshaya Udina (2920m) in the distance. 9-10. For two days we walk through fields of "kekurs", across numerous dry streams' beds on the spacious volcanic plateau between Ovalnaya Zimina and Tolbachik. We cross Bezymyany (again), Tolbachiksky (1500m) and Tolud (1300m) passes and come to under Plosky Tolbachik volcano (3080)m, which actually is the flat and easily accessible part of Tolbachik massif. Between Bezymyany and Tolbachiksky passes we walk by the smaller cones of the Tolbachik's Northern Break Line dating back to the eruption of 1975. Camp.

11. Non technical ascent on screes, rotten rock and some snow to the rim of the huge nearly 500m deep crater of Plosky Tolbachik. Superb view of sharp icy Ostry Tolbachik (3672m) to the left and of all the other volcanoes around. 8-10hr with return to camp.

12-13. For two days we walk down to south skirting Tolbachik to where "Vodopadyaya" station stands at the head of the tractor road to Kozyrevsk. On the way "Tolud" seismology station is passed by. At "Vodopadyaya" we pick up the food and petrol for the next 8 days brought there by truck. Camp-station houses.

14-17. Four days of total wilderness. First it is volcanic landscapes, then we come down to tundra, move often without paths, go through bushes and taiga along rivers Pravy Tolvachik, Levy Tolvachik and Levy Schapina to Tumroksky hot springs. Four rivers, not counting smaller streams are waded on the way. The fords are not dramatic (water is low in late August-early September) but of course wet and cold. Tumroksky hot springs (or just "Tumroks") are in fact a private tourist base in a wide beautiful valley with several wooden cabins (with stove heating) and hunters' huts. Hot volcanic water comes out of the mountain side into a pool big enough for two people. There is a shed for clothes. Camp. Or accommodation in cabins for a small sum of $5-7.

18. Rest day, hot spring baths, baking salmon in embers.

19. We walk for 5-6hr on a good (i.e. clearly seen) path to under Kizimen volcano and camp at the forest line. Good view of the green valley and encircling shapely peaks. Camp at about 950m.

20. Non technical ascent of the volcano (2480m) with return to Tumroksky hot springs. The huge fumarole with furious white steam is the main volcanic attraction on the way up and the views from the top are breathtaking, especially that of the graceful white cone of Kronotsky volcano and back to Klyuchevskoi Group. 9-11hr.

21. We leave the "Tumroks", walk gently up for 5-6hr on a good path in light taiga and having gained about 500m come to two huts standing in open tundra. Camp-huts

22. We walk further, down now, through taiga again to the head of a rough road, going to Lazo village. 5-6hr. An expedition truck will pick up the group and bring in 1.5hr to the village. Accommodation at a private hotel with basic facilities.

23. Again we board our expedition truck and drive 450km back to the hotel in Paratunka where come by the evening. Kamchatka river is crossed by ferry and a stop is made for lunch by the road.

24. After breakfast we drive for about 40 minutes on the metalled road, then turn to the track in the river bed leading up to Avacha Refuge where we arrive in another 1.5hr. It stands at 980m under the saddle between Koryaksky and Avachinsky volcanoes and consists of several simple wooden cabins with wooden bunks.

25. Non technical ascent of Avachinsky volcano (2740m), first on a beaten path, higher on the summit rise by frozen screes and probably some snow patches. From the rim of the crater, filled with black outcrops of hardened lava of incredible shapes. The fierce yellow furnace of the fumarole is a fascinating sight but the stunning views of Avacha Bay, tiny white Petropavlovsk, surrounding volcanoes and the ocean easily overcome that. 10-12hr with descent. Refuge.

26. It takes us 1.5hr to drive to hotel (double rooms, B&B) in Petropavlovsk, so we will have time for a short excursion in the town and probably to the shore of the Bay. A farewell dinner in the evening. Hotel.

27. Short bus drive to Elizovo Airport. Flight to Moscow. Transfer to hotel. Free afternoon and evening.

28. Transfer to the airport. Flight home.