Mountaineer, guide, consultant to ascents up to high peaks 7000-8000 meters, photographer, published materials about ascents.

Birth day: January 16th 1958
E-mail: severnuk@usa.net
martbsp@online.ru

Mountaineering achievements

All summits unless noted achieved without the use of supplemental oxygen.

1997

• July 7th, Broad Peak, 8047 meters, Solo Ascent
• July 14, Gasherbrum D 8035 meters. Solo Speed Ascent, Camp ABC (5800 meters) to Summit 9 hrs.30 min.
• May 23 Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters
• April 23 Mount Everest 8848 Meters, Climbing Team Leader, Indonesian National Everest Expedition. (Supplemental O² used)

1996

• Oct. 9, Shisha Pangma, 8008 meters, N. Summit, Ascended Alone
• Sept. 25, Cho-Oyu, 8201 meters North Side, Ascended Alone
• May 10, Mount Everest, 8848 meters. South Col Route
• May 17, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters. Speed Solo Ascent 21 hours 16 minutes

1995

• May 17, Mount Everest, 8848 meters. North Ridge Route
• Oct. 8, Dhaulagiri, 8176 meters, 17 hours 15 min. Record Speed Assent
• Dec 8, Manaslu, 8156 meters. Winter Ascent
• June 30, Peak Abai, 4010 meter. Personal Guide for President of Kazakhstan

1994

• April 29, Makalu, 8460 meters. Guided Ascent of First Summit Tower
• May 15, Makalu, 8476 meters. Speed Ascent 46 hours. Main Summit

1993

• July 1-3, K2, Chogori, 8611 meters, German International Expedition
• May 14, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters. Guided Ascent with 70 year old American

1991

• Oct. 7, Mt. Everest, 8848 meters. South Col Route
• First Russian - American expedition
• May 10, Dhaulagiri, 8176 meters. West Wall New Route,
• First Kazakhstan Himalayan Expedition

1990

• Feb., Peak Pobeda, 7400 meters, first Winter Ascent
• April, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters. Guided Ascent, first Ascent with clients on Cassin Ridge Route
• May, Mt. McKinley, 6193 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent West Rib 10.5 hrs
• Aug., Khan Tengri, 7005 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent
• Aug., Peak Pobeda, 7439 meters, first Solo Speed Ascent

1989

• April 15, Kanchenjunga, 8556 meters. New Route
• April 30 - May 2, Kanchenjunga, 8556 meters, New Route, First Traverse of the Four 8000 meter summits of Kanchenjunga Massif (from Ylung-Khang to South Summit). All used oxygen by order of expedition leader.

1988

• First Traverse Pobeda Massif west summit to Peak Topografov

1987

• First Round Trip Speed Ascent, Peak Lenin, 14 hrs Base Camp Summit Base Camp

1981 - 1993

• Over thirty 7000 meter ascents, two hundred other ascents in Tien Shan, Pamir, and Caucasus Ranges with the National Climbing Teams of USSR and Kazakhstan.

1980

• Peak Communism, 7495 meters Peak Lenin, 7137 meters My First 7000'ers

1974

• First Experience in high-altitude mountains in Tien-Shan (5000 meters) 1970 Began Mountaineering in Ural Mountains

Professional employment

1997

Expedition Consultant, Climbing Leader, Indonesian National Everest Expedition

1996

Principal High Altitude Guide, Mount Everest Expedition, Mountain Madness, Seattle Washington

1995

Principal High Altitude Guide, Mount Everest Expedition Tibet Side, Himalayan Guides, Edinburgh, Scotland

1994

Climbing Leader, Condor Adventures, Denver, Colorado

1990

Climbing Guide, Mt. McKinley, Fantasy Edge Mountain Guides, Telluride, Colorado

1990 -1996

Principal High altitude Guide, Tien-Shan and Pamir Mts.

1982 - l993

Coach and Instructor, Alpinism, Military Sport Club, Alma-aty, Kazakhstan Coach Cross Country Skiing, Adolescent School For Sport, Alma-aty, Kazakhstan

Competitions, records, awards

1996

Lhotse Speed Ascent, 8505 meters

Record Time 21 hours, 16 minutes, base camp to summit.

1995

Dhalaguiri Speed Ascent, 8176 meters

Record Time 17 hours 15 min, base camp to summit

1990

Peak Pobeda, First Winter Ascent, 7400 meters

First Solo Speed Ascent, Khan Tengri, 7005 meters

First Solo Speed Ascents, Peak Pobeda, 7439 meters

First Place, Mt. Elbrus speed Ascent, 5642 meters,

Record Time, I hour, 40 minutes

1989

First Place Mt. Elbrus Speed Ascent, 5642 meters,

Master of Sport with Honors and Order of Personal Courage,

Awarded by President Gorbachev, USSR

1987

First Round Trip Speed Ascent of Peak Lenin, 7137 meters, 14 hours

Published works

• American Alpine Journal, 1996 - The Roads We Choose The "Oxygen Illusion"
• American Alpine Journal 1997 The Climb A. Boukreev, Weston Dewalt, (co-authors), St Martins Press NYNY 1997

Photographs published

Life Magazine; Men's Journal; Outside Magazine; American Alpine Journal

Education

• 1979 Graduate, Bachelor of Science, Physics, Chelabinsk University for Pedagogy, Chelabinsk, Russia
• 1979 Graduate, Coaching Program for Cross-Country Skiing, Chelabinsk University for Pedagogy, Chelabinski, Russia, 1975 Graduate, High School, Korkino, Russia