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Mountaineering: Reviews, reports, comments :  
El Capitan by Zodiac route

During period from May 23rd till June 10th the climbing party Pavel Shabalin (Kirov) - Alexander Morozov (Novocherkassk) made an attempt to climb a new route to the North Wall of Mt. Hunter (4,442 m), Alaska. 1,500 metres of very steep mixed route usually become complicate by unstable weather in this region. That's why there are not too much routes placed on the wall of Moonflower Buttress, all of them are high grade, normally VI, A2 - A4, 5.11, and they are not often repeated.





After 12 days of waiting the optimal conditions the party made an attempt of climb by left buttress, to the left from all other routes. Spent 3 days of hard job and placed 7 ropes on very complicate relief, the party had to stop on the wall because of sharp rise in temperature. The wall cleaned very often, the avalanches falling even in the night and gave not the possibility to cross narrow orifice. After 4 nights spent on the wall in portaledge under cover of eaves two climbers have to descent on the 8th day of climb.



Two American teams tried to success by popular routes the same time but cancelled after 3 days. Famous English climber Andy Parkins attempted to place a new solo route on the right side of the wall but descent on the second day because of the same reason (weather).



Nevertheless after descent Shabalin and Morozov went to California (Yosemite Park) where they climbed difficult classic El Capitan route Zodiac (VI, 5.11, A3+) in 5 days from June, 18th till 22nd. The route is full of difficulties and very popular.

The guys thanks to BASK company for the excellent equipment and Shmatkov Valeri, Top-Design company director for the support of expedition.






 

The information by Pavel Shabaline

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