Records of phone communications were forwarded by Andrei Kondrashev correspondent for the NTV program "Distance -60".

Everest

April 26. A team of mountaineers from Indonesia (2 climbers) led by three Russian climbers - Anatoli Boukreev, Vladimir Bashkirov, and Eugeny Vinogradski - reached the top of Everest. This was the first expedition to ascend the mountain this season. It should be stressed that the Russian mountaineers were invited to participate as coaches and experts rather than guides in the traditional sense.

The ascent was observed by British climbers who used a satelite-telephone to broadcast updates throughout the climb. So once again the hotline for news on Everest events can be found on the Internet. As for the Russian mass media, the TV program "Distance -60" airing on the NTV channel also gathered timely updates from our expeditions via audio dispatches recorded from telephone transmissions. We are grateful to the program correspondent, Andrei Kondrashev, who shared his records with us. We offer you the following information.

Anatoli Boukreev. Interview - Everest with the Indonesian team.

"We had acclimated three nights at 7300 meters and climbed up to 7500 - 7600 m. Before our final assault - we descended for a rest as several of our teammates are physically highly trained, but lack 8000 meter experience.

A.K.
- How many times were you on Everest?

For me, it is the fourth expedition on Everest. But the other climbs had different objectives. This trip has been interesting in regard to my role as a coach.

A.K.
- Tell us about your Indonesian teammates?

This is a team consisting of military people. I like their spirit. They climb as if it is a war: significant strength, psychological readiness, but not much experience. Their lack of it is compensated only by their rigorous army training. In my opinion, it's better to climb than go to war.

A.K.
- What is new for you on Everest this year?

This is the fourth time I've been here. Last year I was a guide on the American expedition "Mountain Madness". You are probably aware that three expeditions were caught high on the mountain in a sudden storm. Eight climbers were killed. Our expedition lost no clients, but it was much work. Our leader - Scott Fisher died, and to return this year is not any kind of pleasure. Last year three guides perished including New Zealander Rob Hall and Scott Fisher, both of whom I considered very close to me in spirit. I respected them as guides very much. So for me to come back, I dedicated the climb to my friends.

A.K.
- Your next plans?

The Indonesian program was not pure sport but also a political program which had a positive result for all Russian mountaineers. We were invited as experts, as the best from our mountain school. And for this reason it is more than a sport result. But since we are also sportsmen, I have an additional goal beyond Everest - to climb the Everest-Lhotse traverse in the Everest-Lhotse massif. Vladimir Bashkirov also has plans for a very problematical traverse - Lhotse-Lhotse Shar. These are two of the main unsolved problems in the Everest-Lhotse massif. Right now these are two sound goals in high altitude mountaineering, but in terms of highly technical mountaineering I think the spotlight is on the West Face of Makalu. This spring, Russian climbers are trying to run it.

The Ossetian Everest Expedition

Leader - Valery Kuzin.

"22.04.97 The weather has changed for the worse, but we are continuing to work. On the main route there are three ropes fixed - more then 150 m. I can say that the ridge which was the main problem is now done and it was completed in very poor conditions - strong wind, and cold.

Now we are approximately at 6800 m. Two climbers working the route have gone down and left the expedition. Vladimir Gubenko, an experienced mountaineer, performed considerable work on the route but his ulcer opened and he had to go down. The dust carried by the wind and unfiltered water are possible causes. Additionally Arthur, Hamizaev's pupil, was struck by mountain sickness.

The head coach and I were forced to make a decision. Since the main route could only be worked by a few climbers, a group of four: Katagov, Volkov, Rubaev and Mischenko will move to the classical North-East ridge route. They are now at about 6000 m.

On the North Wall we have climbed to 7000 m."

Sergei Efimov on the Makalu West Wall Expedition

Information collected from April 4th to the 1st of May, 1997.

"Khabibulin, Bolotov, and Bugachevski have descended from altitude 7100 m. This is the highest point we could reach in the last 7 days. Two days ago the boys found the tent of a British expedition. That was the highpoint of their climb on 30th May 1992. Our boys have already run 300 meters higher. The relief of the wall is 50 degrees with smooth rocks and verglass ice. This makes for sustained frontpointing (crampons) and requires the use of more frequent belay points. For 6days at an altitude of 6000m our climbers ran about 900 meters (600m height overall).

The weather is not very warm which makes earlier starts (8 a.m) practically impossible. In these hours, much time is spent warming up even with modern double boots and other specialized garments. Effective work starts only when the sunlight reaches the slope around 10 a.m. The strain of technical climbing at high altitides along with the typical problems of acclimatization have seriously impacted the health of our climbing team. Almost half the team is affected by bouts of coughing due to deep breathing and the very dry and cold air.

Andrei Kislov suffered a severe cold. After losing his voice, he became very concerned and went down. This is a typical phenomenon of high altitude mountaineering. The fact was remarked upon by other mountaineers such as Lebedikhin and Tcherny who also lost their voices. Another climber, Dima Pavlenko suffered a nose bleed, but after returning to basecamp quickly recovered.

Close to us is a second team, the so-called Swiss expedition consisting of two climbers. But I'm afraid their climbing will be limited as they do not have enough time.

Ahead of us is the second and most important attempt to date. We still are unable to climb up beneath the 600 meter pillar which would allow us to look up the route and contemplate our further line of ascent. This all important stretch leads to a point at 7800 meters. For now, the boys have come down for a rest as they are exhausted and need at least three rest days before trying again.

We have climbed only part of the wall till now, but I think the main goal was reached. The boys have unraveled much of the wall's secrets and much of the unknown has been explored. All participants reached 6500 m. Three climbers - Khabibulin, Bolotov, Zhilin reportedly climbed a length of the West Ridge, climbed to 7500 m, thereby undertaking excellent acclimatization.

There is very great cold on this face. Up high, especially in the morning, it is Siberian winter. With the sun shinning, the weather in basecamp is wonderful each morning, but by 1 p.m. it clouds over and becomes gloomy. As the snow falls, the great wall becomes gray. Nobody knows would it be better. The danger of avalanche becomes serious.

A.K.
- Have you reached the point that previous expeditions have attained?

No, not yet. But all previous expeditions did not work in such conditions and ran all the hard pitches in snow. We have a very difficult ascent.

A.K.
- What are your further plans?

Our second attempt is planned for May 2nd. From the 2nd to the 7th climbing will proceed followed by a rest. Climbing on the wall will then resume again and in about 10 days or so we expect to undertake the main assault."

Nikolai Cherni about Lhotse traverse