Please, pay attention, "RISK Online" journal does not have any ideas about whether Gia and Merab were on the top or not. We just publish the information we got from different sources.

Gia Tortladze - the head of First Everest Georgian expedition sent for RISK online journal the letter with detail description of the expedition.

The message of Gia Tortladze from June 17th, 1999

First Everest Georgian expedition, being organised by Georgina Mountain federation took place in 1999 year from April 11th to May 29th.

 

Five participants of the expedition: - G.Tortladze (head), Merab Nemsezviridze, Merab Khabazi, Mamuka Zikheseli and Irakli Ugulava reached the summit of the heights point of the world on May 26th. 4 camps were established higher then Base Camp: altitudes 6400 m (ÀÂÑ), 7000 m (I camp), 7700 m (I I ) and 8300 m (I I I). The oxygen used.

 

3 sherpas took part in the expedition, doctor Zurab Astakhishvili and two members who got ill and did not reached the top. (D.Chantladze and G.Otarashvili).

 

There were 3 acclimatisation climb up to 7000 m, 7400 m and 7500 m. The final push the group started at May 23rd and had a night at 7 000 m, on May 24th- at 7700 m, May 25 - at 8300 m.

 

May 26, from storm Camp 9 climbers started the assault behind Georgian's- 4 sherpas, 2 Americans, Spain woman, Italian climber and Russian one. 300 meters additional fix ropes were on the route.

 

At 8600m I gota problem with my oxygen mask, so me and Merab Nemsizveridze being later of main group for about 40 -50 minutes. We repaired the mask and went on the route.

 

At about 10.00 (Nepal time) Apa Sherpa, Nanga Dordge and Gorge Dimaresku were on the summit. The rest participants summated between 10.30 and 11.00.

 

In 40 -50 minutes me and Merab Nemsizveridze reached the top of the snow pyramid and stopped before the summit for 30-40 meters, at about the same height we made advertisement photos for our sponsors. Since that moment we communicate with liaison officer which together with our expedition participants watched us in a scoop. After all participant of the ascent lost the top, me and Merab came to the summit, again communicate with OS and made several photos of the summit where as background one can see Lhotse and Makalu. On the way down we met the Georgian team, which were waiting for us near the second step.

 

The next stop was bellow the first step where we waited for I. Ugulava and went on the descent. At about 17.00 (Nepal time) we reached the Camp at 8 300 m where had a night.

 

May 27, at 6 in the evening we were in ABC and in May 28 to BC.

 

In BC OS gave us the Certificate in Base Camp, which confirmed our ascent.

 

May 29, Kathmandu.

 

We would like to thank our doctor who take the active part in riscue.

Best wishes,
Gia Tortladze

Several photos were enclosed to this letter. Photos as Gia said were made by Merab Nemsezveridze and him during the ascent. Photos are the same he sent to Everest News. Comments to photos are by Gia on the phone talk. The same comments were sent to Everest News.

Sertificate, confirmed the fact of ascent, they got it in liaison officer of Tibet association of climbers. (ÒÌÀ).

Photos of Gia Tortladze made for sponsors in a place where they stayed before the summit.

Photos of Merab Nemsezveridze, in a place they stayed before the summit.

Photos on the top. On the front - Merab Nemsezveridze.

Photos on the top with Lhotse and Makalu.

Also on the phone Gia told us about the story with Italian whom they met during the ascent and helped him giving half of oxygen bottle? Oxygen was run out of him.

We have had several questions after we got the message from Gia. And we sent them to him.

Message of RISK Online - 18 June, 1999

Dear Gia,

 

Thanks a lot for the information and photos. Could you be so kind to explain some pieces of the text.

1. You don not point out the exact time you and Merab came to the place of photo shooting near the top.
2. What time you were on the top?
3. What time and who and in what order from rest 9 climbers left the summit and went near you, names and times - exactly?
4. What time did you reach the second step on descent?
5. By your words you left behind somebody else on the way down from the top to the second step, as you said they had come to you from up above when you sit near second step. Whom and where you left behind?
6. What time you finish the first step?
7. Actually, You have a misprint when you said about liaison officer in plural.
8. Your radio set could connect only with Rassel Brice and David. Confirm, if I understood correctly that the liaison officer? Who was in an hour walk, come up to them to the camp and PERSONALY watch you in a scoop?
9. Confirm, if I understood correctly that all 8 photos you sent were made by Merab and you. What camera did you use?
10. Please, write them own. Who and what are on each photos:
    Tortl1.jpg
    Tortl2.jpg
    Tortl3.jpg
    Tortl4.jpg
    Tortl5.jpg
    Tortl6.jpg
    Tortl7.jpg
    Tortl8.jpg
11. You told that you met on the ascent Italian, Spain woman and sherpa. You gave to Italian half an oxygen bottle, because his was over. What time and where it took place?

Sorry for so many questions, we would like the story about your ascent will be maximum full.

 

Please, reply as soon as possible. Tried to get called to you but nobody answered.

Unfortunately we did not get the message with the answers our questions. Gia said that he did not have the access to e-mail and just called us on the phone. Here we place the transcript of that talk on the phone.

G.T.:

So on the first question: the exact time we were on the top. That was about 13:30. So it is very about.

RISK:

This is the place where you were the first time or the summit by itself?

G.T.:

No, the summit itself.

RISK:

And what time you reached the place for photos (30 meters from the summit?

G.T.:

That was about 12 and so …Roughly, that was 12:50.

Go on, 3rd question: What time and who and in what order from rest 9 climbers left the summit?

No, not 9, but there were more climbers, ours climbers were there also. 12 persons being there. They left like that: Fred Barth, Nanga Dordgi - sherpa

RISK:

Together?

G.T.:

Yes they went together.

RISK:

What time you saw that?

G.T.:

That was about … That was before we would go up

RISK:

But that was when you sit on this place?

Ã.Ò.:

Yes, we spent there some time, more then 30 minutes maybe, and made those first photos we sent to you. Thus, Nanga Dorgi, Andrei left… Apa and Dorgi left together… Then ours left: Merab Zikhiseli… Before them Mambadur left. And the last was Irakli Ugulava. Then left Spain woman with that Italian That was about 12:50, maybe 13:20, between that.

RISK:

So the first person started to go down from the top in 12:50?

G.T.:

Somewhere in 12:50 left first people and the last - in 13:20. And we reached the top in 3 p.m., in 15hours.

RISK:

You have said now in 13:30?

G.T.:

In 13:30 we got the place where we sit and make photos.

RISK:

You have said to me that had been in 12:50.

G.T.:

No, look, in 13:30 we went from there further. Shortly, about 15 hours we were on the top, where made those two photos - 3 photos.

RISK:

Gia, you said that you had been in 30 meters from the top. You climbed 30 meters one and a half hour?

G.T.:

No, we did not climb, we sit there about 0,5 hours, more a bit. Then we reached the summit at about 3 hours p.m., maybe a bit earlier.

RISK:

OK, and what time you went down to second step?

G.T.:

The last left was Irakli Ugulava, who sit when we started to go down on the snow slope. He sit on this snow slope and drunk from Thermos. He said : "Go. Boys!" I will reach you. So that we left behind him and Spain woman and Italian, they were below him. But when we sit near second step that was about 16:20 - 16:30, no lower but below.

RISK:

And before the second step did you live somebody behind?

G.T.:

We left behind Irakli Ugulava, he sit in the slope a bit higher above the place we saw rucksack before. And Span woman and Italian already went down from the slope and were near 3 step.

RISK:

So you left them behind above the 3 step.?

G.T.:

Yes about it. And in 16:20 we were near second step, above it. And at that time our boys sit there and we all then waited for Irakli Ugulava who went down to this place after all.

G.T.:

So, 7 question: you, maybe have a misprint about liaison officers. They introduced like the main officer and his name was Ringi Pinjo. There was another one introduced and he said that he also was the liaison officer, maybe he was entrepreneur I do not know. That was when we come down, before I did not know him at all as officer. So - that was not misprint.

G.T.:

Then about 8 question: your radio set could connect only with Rassel Brice and David.

In both cases we connected with Rassel Brice: in ABC and BC. But in ABC we connected with a doctor, sometimes he heard us, sometimes, he did not. And David sit in BC in Rassel's tents.

G.T.:

Confirm, if I understood correctly, that the liason officer, who was in an hour of walk, come up to them to Camp and watched your in a scoop PERSONALY? This is not an hour of walk, who do said it to you? This is 20 meters only. So where that a house is our tent was (20 meters), but from another side Rassel Brice tent was, also 20-25 meters from there. So two liason officiers and sherpas sit in his tent and watched from there. Because after that when I come down those officers gave me the Certificate, I sent it, and I had the interview with him. They spoke English not very good, but they congratulated us, that 5 persons were on the top. They confirmed that watched us to the end. Even asked me when I sit a bit below, why you did not go further. I said that there are many people and I do not want to make advertising pictures among those people.

G.T.:

9 question: confirm, if I understood right, that all 8 sent photos made by you and Merab Nemsizveridze?

These photos were sent to you by Merab Khabazi, he is our PC man. The first photos, where in red without oxygen - that's me. Father in red - I put off everything - crampons and oxygen and made pictures. Then I put everything on and we go on to the top. All photos are made from my camera. And Merab with hands up, and me with oxygen - also on my camera. His is Merab Nemsizveridze.

And I did not understand why Merab Khabazisent to you the picture where he is on the sight, he is and Lhotse and Makalu as background, so dark photo, remember? This is not Nemsizveridze, This is Merab Khabazi, but he decided he sent his photo also.

Then we have one more photo where the traces, top, traces, which leds to the South, and Lhotse. This is also from my camera, Olympus.

RISK:

Olymopus - digital or normal?

G.T.:

Small black Olimpus, no digital, normal.

Then we have photo of Makalu, it was made by Merab Nemsizveridze. Also on Olympus, and I think there is a date even.

RISK:

So from 3 shots on the top - first with a head is Merab Khabazi?

G.T.:

This is not our photo, it was made by Mamuka Zikhiseli before we reached the top. Why he sent this photo I do not know. There is Merab Khabazi.

RISK:

And 7th and 8th - are yours photos?

G.T.:

Makalu and a bit Lhotse ridge - this made by Merab Nemsizveridze, there is a data, I always set off the date, and I have nowhere the data, because the advertising film.

And the advertising photo where one can see roof of the summit with trace down and Lhotse as background, and everything. This is my photo.

G.T.:

You said that you met Italian and Spain woman and sherpa on the way up. Italian was out of oxygen. What time it happened.

Look, No me and Merab gave it. That was our boys. They did it almost on the top. I do not know where exactly. He was very happy. I think it happened on the top. Half a bottle maybe less.

RISK:

You said you had video?

G.T.:

I have video materials. I have it to the ridge, then these two shots, when we stayed alone: I stay and set off oxygen, talk in Georgian, and Merab also in shot.

RISK:

And on the top? No?

G.T.:

That's all on the top. But I have no panoramic there.

Plus there is the interview with the liaison officer.

RISK:

But with the bottles, with flags do you have any shots?

G.T.:

Video, I have not. I had a small camera, accumulators could be down. Too less materials on the ascent.

RISK:

What time you went down to 8,300?

G.T.:

About 18 hours.

RISK:

And Merab Khabazi said that in 16:30.

G.T.:

No, no, in 18 hours. I do not know, why Merab said that in 16:30, he was mistaken. We went down in 6 p.m.

Gia Tortladze was so kind to promise us to send the materials on video film during the ascent, video -interview with liaison officer and the original of film from his and Merab photo cameras. We do hope that by means of Gia Tortladze we soon could show you some pictures from those films.