AkSu N., center of the north Wall 6B first ascent 4-13.08.96 A.Odintsov (St.-Petersburg), A. Ruchkin (Omsk).
The region of ascent
Map-scheeme
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The peak AkSu Northern is in a mountain region Pamiro-Alai in northern part of Turkestan gorge nearly from a place of merge valley Kara-Su and valley Ak - Su. A highest point of a region - peak AkSu Main (5500 m), closing valley Ak - Su, has powerful strong ice cups, feeding glacier Ak Su and defines a microclimate in valley. In a given region the whole system of the tops with heights from 4000 up to 5300 m is located, which up to the end 80th were not climbed. In the second half 80th there were teams of mountaineer from Odessa, Rostov-on-Don, St.-Petersburg, which have run the first routes of maximum categories of difficulty on the tops AkSu, Petrogradets, Iskander, Blok and other. At the end of 80th the region becomes one of most popular among mountaineers in many respects due to unique geological structure: to availability of the tops with vertical monolithic walls by extent from 500 up to 1000 m and more. Here were repeatedly conducted Championships of USSR in rocky and technical classes, on a number of routes are received maximum winner place in correspondence Champs. On Northern wall AkSu pass routes 6 rated, climbed by commands of Troschinenko, Popov, Tchaplinsky, Moshnikov and other. From unclimbed problem sites there was a corridor in width about 100 m, located between routes Tchaplinsky and Moshnikov. The approa ch on bivi under Northern wall item. AkSu from base camp at the river Ak - Su takes approximately 2 hours.
Before ascent. Preparation
Akcy north face
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For participation in XIX championship of Russia on a mountaineering the command chose a part of north wall, located between a route Moshnikov and route Tchaplinsky. Characteristics of a given route is that at significant steep of rock parts, there is a opportunity to use free climbing in view of availability rich relief. The route is not stone dangerous, as passes between two natural stone selection: couloir of Moshnikov and Popov's slit.
The route on all length has not good places for bivi, therefore a special platform for party (with tent established on it) was made, which has considerably simplified organization bivi and has facilitated passage of a route. On a wall are present insignificant quantity of problem pitches (without relief and cracks), which were assumed to be passed with the help of sky-hooks; and bolts. On a ascent the command has left in the good natural and technical form, after 20 days acclimatization in high zone.
Tactics of the party
Tactics of a command was defined by a route, study of a prospective way on photos and in a field-glass, experience of ascent in a the region.
Studying route before the ascent, begun during previous Chmpionships of Russia preceded. The bottom site of a way was as very stone fall dangerous, therefore a command made the decision to refuse fix roping and started on a wall at two o'clock in the morning with intention pass an ice part of a route for a day.
The special attention was to questions of safety. For belaying stations were used bolts of Petzl. The platform was suspended on them. Party has taken on an ascent one rope of type "Fix rope" and one rope "Edelrid".
The party did not practice advancing processing of pitches. The platform was rearranged in accordance with progress on a route. Practically all points of belaying are equipped by bolts of "Petzl".
